After focusing on abstract geometric forms for the last few seasons (with collections including “○△□” and “凹凸”) the 2010-11 A/W collection from Anrealage marks a return to the body.
But it’s not the limited notion of the body that is usually propagated by fashion; to articulate the conceptual grounding of the collection entirely new bodies had to be made. Mannequins were produced with distorted height-to-width ratios and dressed in garments that interrogated the adjectives wide, short, slim and long by playing with the contextuality of proportion. All details – including the buttons, labels and hangers – were adjusted to fit the new ratios, and by forming different standards a long skirt could become a short skirt and slim trousers could be made wide.
Removed from the stretched and squashed dummies, the garments take on new shapes of their own that adapt according to the wearer. In the words of the designer Kunihiko Morinaga, the idea behind wideshortslimlong was that that “the body as a measure for clothes must be reexamined; without changing this ruler, new clothes cannot emerge.”